Best Climbing Videos : 2012

A short film documenting Jonathan Siegrist on the first ascent of Idaho's hardest route, "Algorithm" 5.14d (9a), on September 8th 2012. Filmed & edited by: Andy Mann & Keith Ladzinski (3 Strings)
licensed music by: Marley Carroll (marleycarroll.com)

Sponsored by: Maxim Ropes (maximdynamicropes.com)

additional support provided by:
Climb On! (climbonproducts.com)
Smith Optics (smithoptics.com)
Arc'teryx (arcteryx.com)



"I could not fall. I think by the end I was screaming at every move - more nervous than tired - but definitely tired. I clipped the chains with swollen forearms and bleeding tips. 'Algorithm' 14d was born. Idaho's hardest pitch, and one of the proudest F.A.s of my career." - Jonathan Siegrist

Ashima Shiraishi's standard-smashing return to Hueco Tanks, TX in March, 2012. Featuring her ascents of Crown of Aragorn (V13) and Barefoot on Sacred Ground (V12) at the age of 10. Directed by Jason Kehl. For more about her, check out the film Origins: Ashima and Obe, available on DVD or HD Download as part of the 2011 REEL ROCK Film Tour. www.bigupproductions.com

The Moab desert is full of beautiful, free standing sandstone towers. What could be more practical and aesthetic than free climbing the towers and base jumping off them?

With my husband and partner Mario Richard, and our good friends Keith Ladzinski and Jorge Visser, we teamed up to shoot the whole adventure on these beautiful towers and make a movie of some of our favorite base climbs.

Since its 1974 first ascent until 2012, only three new routes were established to Cerro Torre's summit without relying on the bolt ladders of the infamous Compressor Route. All three of these ascents included Patagonia ambassadors and field testers -- here are their stories, first hand. Narrated by Kelly Cordes, with Rolando Garibotti, Colin Haley and Hayden Kennedy.

Chris Sharma has been in Ceüse for the last couple of weeks, climbing established lines and bolting a new route. We were able to catch up with him on the tail end of his trip.
Original soundtrack list:
0:00 - 2:08: Drunk Souls - "No more fighting" (http://bit.ly/PulVbs)
2:24 - 3:04: Ricci Fat Cut - "Sit back & chill" (http://bit.ly/SY3ob6)
4:55 - 7:30: Degiheugi - "I feel sorry" (http://bit.ly/PA5Pvz)



Read full interview and more pictures here :
http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/news/in-field/2012/07/25/chris-sharma-back-in-ceuse

More than 600 climbers gather for Petzl RocTrip China. The soundtrack is available on www.barakaflims.com The HipHop song from RicciFatCut (at 17:05) is available on soundcloud.com Voir la version française: www.youtube.com Get more info, pictures, guidebook and wallpapers to download on the Petzl webiste: bit.ly Last fall, from October 26-30, 2011, more than 600 climbers gathered with our team for Petzl RocTrip China. All participants discovered and enjoyed more than 250 brand new pitches on unbelievable limestone especially prepared for the event. Among the highlights of the film, watch Dani Andrada's first ascent of the extremely difficult 7-pitch Corazon de Ensueno (8c/5.14b), a route he put up in 2010 over the course of two trips to the area to prepare for the RocTrip. For this outstanding feat, Dani was awarded Climbing Magazine's prestigious Golden Piton. Other sequences include Steph Bodet and Arnaud Petit sending their project, Lost in Translation (8a+/5.13c), Gabriele Moroni's first ascent of Coup de Bambou (9a/5.14d), as well as other images of spectacular climbs up and down the valley. More infos, pictures, guidebook and wallpapers to download on www.petzl.com

Provides an insider’s look at rock climbing development. Exploration of secret, alpine climbing terrain high above Colorado’s Front Range has created a flurry of debate regarding the philosophy, secrecy and ethics of development. Culminating in Ben Spannuth’s FA of one of the world’s highest elevation 5.14s, ABYSS opens the floodgates of passionate debate within the climbing community.

The scandal unfolds in this 48-minute piece, featuring such climbing talents as Paige Claassen, Matty Hong, Chris Schulte, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Dave Wetmore and Matt Wilder and narrated by Jon Glassberg. Additional commentary from the insightful minds of Peter Beal, Herman Feissner, Joe Kinder, Brady Robinson, Ben Scott, Chris Sharma, John Sherman, and Clark Shelk.

Louder Than Eleven is a Boulder based production company specializing in outdoor media to promote the sport of rock climbing by creating captivating action entertainment.

www.lt11.com
www.abyss.lt11.com
www.facebook.com/louderthan11
www.twitter.com/louderthan11

Music
Immune System - “Gehenna” - www.myspace.com/immunesystem/music
Milyoo – “Classic” – Lexington, KY – soundcloud.com/milyoo
Immune System – “The Orme”
Abel Okugawa - “Milk” www.abelokugawa.com
Milyoo – “Phoenix”
Chaptabois - “Walk” - Facebook.com/Chaptabois
Milyoo – “Multitude”
Milyoo – “Pully”
Yosemite Music - “102” - soundcloud.com/yosemite-music
Immune System – “Initiation”
Milyoo – “Classic Refix”
Milyoo – “Takedown”
Louis W T Buick (Lucky Cub) – “92” - soundcloud.com/lucky-cub
Milyoo – “You are You”
Louis W T Buick (Lucky Cub) – “EXX”
Yosemite Music – “Water”
Neon Highwire - “Isometric View (Novelty Music Scene Mix)” - http://www.neonhighwire.com/
The Slow Waves – “Underbelly” - www.facebook.com/theslowwaves - www.theslowwaves.com

Raquel Guilhon sends Esdrúxulo Luxo 8a+ (10a BR)
Super 35mm

climber
Raquel Guilhon

belayer
Pedro Blois
Roberta Rezende

route
Esdrúxulo Luxo 8a+ (10a BR)

soundtrack
Italo Dance [Stefano Mocini]
Changing Times [Chill Carrier]

Climbing in the Northeast cave. Yosuke Kamibeppu (Ken) and Mark Balilo do some rock climbs real good like.

Climbs:
Cataclysm's Edge, V7
Myloade, V9/10

Arc'teryx Athlete Jason Kruk and Squamish pioneer Hamish Fraser.
Squamish - Genius Loci.

In 1991, tallying more than 20 days in ground up style, Hamish Fraser, Peder Ourom and Mark Gandy established "Genius Loci", a stunning 5 pitch route leading up the Squamish Chief Grand Wall.
Despite it's classic and legendary status, close proximity to the ground, and modest grade (by modern standards), the route has believed to have not been freed in a single ascent until 2012.

Thank you to:
Matt Maddaloni
David Pearson
Charlie Long
Tony Richardson
Andrew Querner
Jason Kruk
Hamish Fraser
Brian Goldstone
Brent O'Hagan

Music
"See You On The Other Side" - Peter McIssac
"Strobe Light" - Yung Sir

Perry Beckham and Will Stanhope explain the history behind Peter Croft's first ascent of the Zombie Roof [5.12d] in Squamish, B.C. and the process behind Will completing the first free-solo of the route.

Filmed & Edited by David Pearson

Additional Videography by Chris Christie

Thanks to:
Matt Maddaloni
Chris Trull
Dave Diegelman
Anders I. Ourom
Scott Young
Sonnie Trotter
Randy Atkinson
Peter A Haan

Music:
Moby - Walk with me, Isolate, Pale Horses
Dustin O'Halloran - We move lightly

A short highlight video produced by Louder Than 11 from the 2012 IFSC Bouldering World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado. The Teva Mountain Games are a project of the Vail Valley Foundation. Complete event details can be found at www.tevamountaingames.com.

This video is about Jenya Kazbekova who climbed "Vremya Ch" when she was 11 years old. Then she climbed her first 8B+ "Parallelyniy Mir" when she was 13 years old and then she made 8a+ onsight "Super Priapos" two years later. Jenya is very talented and hardworking girl. As a result she finally won the World Youth Championship, 2010 in category "Lead" and then she got the silver medal in the same category at the World Youth Championship, 2011. This year she has won Ukrainian Championship held in Kiev in the category "Bouldering" and she got a "Sport Master" rank.
Видео о Жене Казбековой, которой в 11 лет был пройден маршрут категории сложности 8А (Время Ч), и уже в 13 лет категории 8B+ (Параллельный мир). В 15 лет был пройден маршрут категории 8а+ на онсайт (Super Priapos). Женя очень талантливая и трудолюбивая девушка, что позволило ей выиграть Детский Чемпионат Мира в трудности в 2010 году и стать серебряной призеркой в 2011. В мае 2012 года Женя выиграла чемпионат Украины по болдерингу и получила звание мастера спорта.

Randy Leavitt demonstrates the "Leavittation" rock climbing technique. This short video is a great insight on how to climb those nasty sized wide crack! Go Pro cam: Chris Hubbard. Music: vvsmusic "The Star of the County Down (Waltz)".

Early in February, Joe Möhle completed the first Trad ascent of an old open project bolted at a sport crag, The Hole, in Cape Town. The route was originally bolted by Jono Fisher and remained an open project for a long time. Joe initially nabbed the first ascent of it as a sport route but, not trusting the old bolts, he ended up placing gear anyway. He then decided to do the whole thing on gear.
He named the line, Life Enhancement Program. It goes at around 30/31 (8a+), and is very very impressive!
I was there to capture the action.

filmed by: jono
edited by: garth & jono
music by: dj krush
feed me ft. tasha baxter - strange behaviour
krysia's music box
One Love
Jono

Gorilla attacks Matt Wilder for overuse of chalk.

Brush Off Tick Marks: Excess chalk leads to access issues.

www.accessfund.org/gorilla

As a climber sometimes our biggest job is to try to do justice to the amazing stories of our friends and peers. For this piece I worked with our crew at http://camp4collective.com to tell http://thenorthface.com athlete Jimmy Chin's http://jimmychin.com story as he in turn highlights modern day climbing in Yosemite for a National Geographic feature story.

It seemed so serendipitous to be 'on assignment' in a place that we all cut out teeth as adventurers and which also ended up becoming the namesake of our collective!

As always, thanks for tuning in! ~reo

Camp 4 Collective on vimeo: http://vimeo.com/camp4collective/videos

Shot on the Canon 5d, L series lenses, http://www.kesslercrane.com/ pocket dolly v2 and http://www.rodemic.com/ video mic pro.

Music:
Green Button Music
"As The Clock Turns"
"The Museum"
http://GreenButtonMusic.com

Random Rab
"K'Khana" (Featuring Rigzin)
"The Alienist"
http://MySpace.com/​RandomRabMusic

The odd Fontainebleau holiday video. This was my third time in the forest and we had some really nice days. Conditions were perfect. As in every bouldering trip, the list of things to do just gets longer and longer and I'm already looking forward to returning to the source of bouldering.

Climbers & Filming
Markus Jantscher
David Schickengruber

Editing
David Schickengruber

Music
johnny_ripper - "opening credits"
soundcloud.com/johnny_ripper/opening-credits-for-a-film-that-doesnt-exist

johnny_ripper - "sans soucis"
soundcloud.com/johnny_ripper/sans-soucis

Records On Ribs - "Four, Floss, Five, Six"
soundcloud.com/records-on-ribs/four-floss-five-six

Learning Music - "Ghost Transference"
freemusicarchive.org/music/Learning_Music/An_End_Like_This/07_Ghost_Transference

The second in our series of unseen archives from the Posing Productions' footage vault. This clip was shot with a fancy polecam set up at the sport climbing area of Rodellar in Spain. Clip features top UK climber Steve McClure on a couple of routes including the classic 'The Dolphin' (El Delfin) 7c. Amazingly we never found a use for such quality footage, so here it is! www.posingproductions.com

Jungle Speed it's a 9a line ubicated in Siurana (Catalunya), in La Capella's sector. Sasha Gerzha, a 21 russian boy without any sponsor yet, realized this route in november 2012. We went to there with him to recreate the ascension. The result is this short video. We hope you like it!

Shadow and Sara talk about thier motivation to leave the guidebook behind and become inspired by the climbs that they see. With first ascents and random established lines, shadow and sara continue to put up interesting lines and speak about how obscurities can sometimes yeild the most fun.

Music:
J-Dilla "wont do"
Araab Muzic "cant sleep"
Clams Casino "swervin"
Kavinsky "nightcall"

Climbers:
Shadow Ayala
Sara Land

PA: Dana Biederman

Written by
Andrew Tower

Starring
Andrew Tower
Taylor Fultz
Jordan Shipman

Video
Jon Glassberg
Jordan Shipman

Edit
Jon Glassberg

Thanks to
Boulder Rock Club
Urban Climber

Louder Than 11 - LT11.com

The movie relates the first feminine ascent by Nina Caprez of Silbergeier (Swiss), one of the hardest multipitch route in the world, bolted and first sent in 1993 by Beat Kammerlander. Music & video editing by Vladimir Cellier Photography by Julien Nadiras & Diego Defila More movies and soundtracks on: www.barakaflims.com

At the end of June this year Nick Bullock and myself were fortunate enough to be able to make a rare ascent (6th overall) of the Slovak Direct on the nearly 3000m South Face of Denali 6194m in Alaska. The four days we spent on the route gave us some of the most intense and committed but rewarding climbing either of us have done in the mountains. Music Liars - The Exact Colour of Doubt Radiohead - Reckoner Smalltown DJ's - Best of 2011 the National - Sorrow Unbelievable Truth - Higher Than Reason

A film short about a Smash & Grab style climbing trip to Burkett Needle in the Stikine Icecap region of Alaska.

Climbers & Photography: Dave Burdick, Zac West, John Frieh
Production: Dave Burdick
Art: Emily Lang
Creative Direction: Dave Burdick & Zac West
With Support From: The Copp-Dash Inspire Award and the Mazamas Expedition Grant

Music:
Zeds Dead - Coffee Break (http://soundcloud.com/zedsdead/zeds-dead-coffee-break)
Pretty Lights - I Can See it in Your Face (http://prettylightsmusic.com/#/downloads)

This video features :
-Royksopp, 8A Flash
-Gliding through waves like dolphin, 8A first go
-Black Shadows, 8A+
-Brown Shadow 8A
-The flying Burito Brothers, 8B FA
-Peahi, 8A+ FA
-Oliphants Dawn, 8B+ first repeat

Stay tuned for more adventures soon !

Tara Reynvaan on a classic from Smith Rock State Park, Oregon. An Iron Leaf Production.

A variation of gritstone problems in and around The Peak District and Yorkshire, we follow a group of Boreal climbers climbing a variety of problems with different styles grades and locations.

Featuring Nic Sellers, Jordan Buys and Naomi Buys

Directed shot and Edited by Adam Bailes
Presented by Boreal

A day with James Ibbertson at his local and favourite crag, looking at the best quality highballs Caley has to offer.

In May of 2011, Louder Than 11 traveled to the British Virgin Islands for some adventure bouldering on the island known as Virgin Gorda. Join Rich Crowder, Jon Glassberg, Amanda Berezowski, and Jon Wasser as they explore the beautiful white sandy beaches, searching for first ascents and adventure in one of the Caribbean's finest climbing destinations.

Pre-order your copy today! http://fixedpin.com/British_Virgin_Islands.html

Boulders:
Fruit De Mar (V5) FA
UG Arete (V2)
Baby Diarrhea (V5) FA
Green Slab (V0)
Zeno's Paradox (V5)
Pocket Pull (V2)
Rose Garden of Trust (V8) FA
Deep Sea SDS (V4)
Ancients Traverse (V3) FA
Hands Don't Have Genders (V4) FA
Zion (V6) FA
Banyan Arete (V0)
Staff of RA (V6) FA
Cave Hop (V3)
Finger Blaster (V7) FA
Hippopoami (V5)
Ocean Treasure (V2)
Peebles (V6)
Fire in the Sky (V4) FA
Fingering it Out (V9)
Spring Bay Crack (V1)
The Wave (V2)
Monsters Do Smile (V0)

Wild Country ‘Crack School’ is a series of six short videos designed to utilise the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics of crack climbing. Over six episodes the guys cover all widths of crack: Fingers, Hands, Fists and Offwidths as well as looking at the skills of gear placement and taping up.
Designed for those who know next to nothing about crack climbing and who want to make their first steps, the videos are made to illustrate what the guys think are the most pertinent points for starting out on each size of crack. They look at how to use hands and feet in the crack as well as gear and overall tips on technique and the way to approach each type of crack.
Importantly, and often overlooked, is the fact that these ‘crack’ techniques not only allow you to climb routes defined as cracks but this new knowledge makes you a more rounded climber. So if faced with a short section of crack, or a corner or groove you have an armoury and variety of ways of placing your hands to keep you going. These techniques therefore are incredibly important if you are making a transition from indoors to out, when holds move from ‘sticking out’ to ‘going in’ and thrusting, poking, camming and jamming become more important than simply grabbing and pulling. ¬
As Tom Randall says: ‘Crack climbing well is a fantastic feeling and learning how to climb cracks opens up a world of routes, and indeed some of the best routes in the world: from Brown and Whillans’ classics in the UK (try doing Cenotaph Corner or the Sloth without being able to jam) through to Yosemite and Indian Creek in the USA. And remember, the best climbers always have a variety of techniques at their disposal and having a variety of techniques always makes you a better climber!!’

More Crack School Episodes
Finger Cracks
Hand Cracks
Fist Cracks
Offwidth Cracks
Advanced Fingers
Gear and Gear Placement
Taping
Advanced Hands